Learning from their previous trip to Khasab Team Banana has come prepared. Mozzie repellent packed, beers chilled and sun cream already soaked into our skins. We strike up a conversation with some Emiratis; they are here to charter a local fishing boat. White and Yellow discuss the possibility of seeing a whale shark, with their new philosophy (and thinking this could be the opportunity they have been waiting for) Yellow takes the initiative and asks if there is space on the boat for two small bananas? They are incredibly welcoming and more than happy to accommodate us. We clamber aboard and enjoy the ride to wherever it is they are going.
As we chat excitedly with our new friends Yellow and White are informed of their jobs and are taken aback. Bear in mind there is no clear understanding on the laws of spear-fishing in this region and we are on a boat where we have brought on board two guns and seen none. They take in turns announcing their line of work. We are in the company of 3 policemen, 1 navy officer, 1 army officer, 1 airport controller and a local fisherman (the captain of the boat), all of them related (except the captain). An unusual crowd, 2 banana’s amongst a gaggle of light hearted government officials sharing a boat ride in an incredible setting. We immediately feel at ease as these important people jest about the benefits in having friends in high places.
Yellow and White chat with the airport controller, he has never swam before. One of the policemen is learning to scuba dive on this trip. None of them have been spear-fishing before. We arrive at the destination, Yellow and White dive in with a few nerves. The novice spear-fishermen are scrambling around us holding lethal weapons, trigger fingers primed and itching to kill their first fish. Aware of these hazards Team Banana keep a wide birth. One of the policemen is attempting to dive down whilst wearing a life jacket. White is half way through a dive when he sees this. He bursts out laughing, causing him to choke on a mouthful of milty sea-water. Returning to the surface, now all he can see is a semi-submerged guy performing a futile duck dive, two hairy legs failing in the sky. White’s hysterical laughter is justified by hearty bellows from the policeman’s relative’s spectating from the boat.
Our short boat ride has transported us several kilometres away from the last signs of civilisation. Nestled into a cliff face the banana’s are delighted to be diving in unspoilt crystal clear water. Beneath the surface, a kaleidoscope of colour appears. New species of fish pop out of the cavernous maze the coral provides. Yellow spots a clam, the chance of unearthing a pearl is too much to resist and they go down to open the mollusk. As we attempt to discover a gem White sharts himself. A moray eel appears from a crevasse a mere two feet away. Brandishing rows of razor sharp teeth the evil looking green serpent moves closer to inspect the commotion that has disturbed it. Having recently heard a horror story of a diver losing a finger to one of these serpents we are fully aware of what a moray is capable of. The eel slides out of its den to devour the clam. White calls one of the novice divers to show him this extraordinary creature. As he dives down to point out the eel the over-enthusiastic beginner is lining up his spear with the moray’s head. Although inexperienced there is a possibility he might make a successful shot, White frantically waves his arms and screams underwater. Fortunately the naval officer is unable to hold his breath for long and returns to the surface. Neptune would not have been happy.
Returning back to land, the camp and the goats, Team Banana is delighted with the day. An unexpected adventure occurred because of our opportunism. Banter is still being brandished relentlessly as we moor. Never have we seen locals laugh so hard, even though we don’t understand a word of Arabic it is still nice to be included in the joyous atmosphere. They ask for no money and say we do not need to pay but we give a contribution to petrol nonetheless.
Although gruelling voyages, these trips to Oman are well worth it. The Team Banana philosophy is paying off, “If you don’t ask, you don’t know.” Neptune and his trusty trident have blessed us. Yet again.
W&Y
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